Day 21: At Sea

Today was quiet, and it seemed everyone onboard adopted a relaxed schedule. Thanks to the wide variety of lecturers brought onboard by Crystal, I now look forward to the daily lectures. Today’s lectures included the life of Eva “Evita” Peron, the political history of South Africa in the 20th century, and African wildlife. I attended all 3, had a session at the gym and spa, and generally settled in for the next several days at sea. Memories of last night’s gala celebration are still fresh on my mind, and it was the topic of conversation everywhere on the ship today.

Tomorrow: at sea.

Day 20: Buenos Aires, Argentina

A great expanse of cargo containers were on the dock on both sides of the Serenity in the Buenos Aires port. Shuttle busses transporting passengers from the ship to the terminal drove past mountains of containers perfectly stacked 5 and 6 high.

Virtuoso On-Site Mai 10 provided an expert tour guide, Flavio, and a driver for a private tour of the city this morning. I have not seen Buenos Aires in many years, and was happy to see many familiar sights as well as new developments and renovations of older buildings throughout the city.

We stopped for coffee in the Gran Café Tortoni, the oldest café in Buenos Aires dating to 1858.

A site of special interest for me was the polo fields. Perhaps the next time I visit Buenos Aires it will be during the polo season, today, however, I was content to simply look out across the fields.

I enjoyed a very pleasant lunch in the oldest tennis club in Buenos Aires as the special guests of Jose and Marita of Mai 10. For dessert I tried a local favorite, ice cream made from dulce de leche. Jose and Marita drove us back to the ship in time to rest and change before the party scheduled for early evening.

And what a party it was! Billed as the gala celebration dinner of the 20th anniversary of Virtuoso Voyager Club and set against the backdrop of the original tango club, the dinner and tango show had already captured our imaginations. However, none of us could have imagined the delights that awaited us thanks to the expert planning and attention to every detail by Mai 10. As we arrived by coach, we could see a street party coming to life with characters of the romantic bygone era of the early 1900’s when tango was at its zenith.



Tango music filled the air as we watched a couple dance, oblivious to the commotion being made by the other characters, including a very “friendly” young lady. The street had actually been closed off by special arrangement for our event. Two period automobiles marked the far end of the street.

The party moved inside El Viejo Almacen where we enjoyed a delicious meal in the quaint historic club. Following our final sips of espresso, the lights dimmed and the magic began. We were treated to every aspect of the tango – the dance, the costumes, the music, and the singing. It was nothing short of spectacular! We returned to Serenity in a buzz of excitement, recalling the events of the evening with great delight. It was a truly unforgettable celebration of life, Virtuoso and Voyager Club style.

Serenity departed Buenos Aires at midnight to begin our 8-day crossing to Cape Town.

Tomorrow: at sea.

Day 19: Montevideo, Uruguay

We had beautiful weather for our visit to Montevideo, compliments of Crystal Cruises. The view from Lido Café on deck 12 was a spectacular preview of what was waiting for us outside. Our guide and driver from Turisport Ltda., a Virtuoso On-Site, were waiting for us dockside.

After saying hello to Mary Bone of Turisport, we departed on our tour of the capital city of Uruguay. I had not traveled to Montevideo before, so this was a day of new sights for me.

The city architecture is a mix of European influences and the English style seemed dominant to me. We walked through the Plaza Independencia in the center of the city and stopped briefly here and there throughout the downtown area. Then we drove through beautiful neighborhoods with tree lined streets.

Lunch in an outside restaurant at the Mercado del Puerto gave us a taste of local cuisine including paella and Uruguay’s specialty, barbeque. After lunch we drove along the waterfront past beautiful beaches and high rise apartment buildings.

At the farthest point on our drive, we stopped at a small park on a point and posed for a picture with our guide, Patricia, and driver, Julio.

Because Crystal had a special dinner this evening for their passengers on the full world cruise, we ended our tour mid-afternoon, and returned “home” to the Serenity.

Tomorrow: Buenos Aires and the Virtuoso Voyager Club 20th Anniversary Gala Dinner.

Day 18: At Sea

The weather has been great throughout the cruise. Both yesterday and today gave us nothing but calm seas, blue skies, and comfortable temperatures. Cruise Director Rick Spath told us tonight the weather in Montevideo tomorrow will be fabulous.

I look forward to the daily lecture schedule. Today Dr. Herb Keyser told us about the life and career of Fanny Brice.

After dinner this evening, I enjoyed co-hosting the Voyager Club private cocktail party for this segment. The party was held in the back section of the Lido Café on deck 12, in the area many of us choose for breakfast every morning. It was a new location for the party, and with a little rearranging of the tables and chairs, it proved to be a popular location since we could see out the back of the ship to a spectacular view of the sea behind us.

To end the day on a high note (pun intended) we were entertained by “Cello Diva” Sarah Jessica Maer in the Stardust Club. I believe Crystal has brought onboard more lecturers and entertainers than passengers! The variety is unbelievable.

Tomorrow: Montevideo, Uruguay.

Day 17: At Sea

I have never been on a ship that has as many things to do and experience as the Crystal Serenity. I attended three fascinating lectures today, all presented by very talented lecturers. The first lecture started with a brief overview of the history of world exploration which exploded in the 1400’s. The overview was setting the stage for the real star of the series of lectures on the Englishman James Cook who became an expert navigator and cartographer. The second lecture was an introduction to Montevideo, Uruguay, our next destination. For a complete change of pace, the third and final lecture of the day was a biography on the great entertainer, Al Jolson, complete with clips from his movie, The Jazz Singer.

I returned to the gym and spa today now that we are at sea again. After the formal dinner and captain’s reception, we went back to the Galaxy Lounge to see a second performance of “My Favorite Things.” I mentioned this production when I saw it a few days ago, but frankly, it was just as enjoyable the second time. The production ends with a flourish of elaborate costumes. This photo gives you an idea of the quality of the performance and a view of the stage in the Galaxy Lounge. Great entertainment in an elegant yet comfortable setting.

Tomorrow: at sea on our way to Montevideo, Uruguay.

Day 16: Rio

Another first for me – a trip to the top of Sugar Loaf, iconic symbol of Rio. It takes two gondola rides to reach the top. Christina, our guide, told us the gondola cars had been replaced about 6 months ago. At the mid-point stop there were retired gondolas on display. Next to one was the life-size statue of an early supporter of the gondola venture. He was a man of few words, but after a brief chat, I struck an agreement with my fellow entrepreneur and we closed the deal with a handshake.

The view from atop Sugar Loaf was spectacular, haze and all.


Mid-afternoon we said goodbye to our driver, Paolo, and our guide, Christina, and returned to our home away from home, Crystal Serenity.

Tomorrow: at sea headed for Montevideo, Uruguay.

Day 15: Rio de Janeiro, first day

Around 6:30 AM I joined about 100 of my fellow passengers on the forward decks to watch Crystal Serenity’s arrival into Rio de Janeiro. It was a spectacular scene and it was only the beginning of an amazing day. Virtuoso On-Site Matueté provided us a guide and driver for the day. We found them easily, jumped inside and off we went.

Our first stop was the Sambódromo, ground zero for Carnaval. There was much activity around the complex during our behind the scenes look. In a couple of weeks, the city, immersed in Carnaval, will pulsate with thousands of samba dancers and musicians parading down the center of the Sambódromo.

I’ve visited Rio 4 or 5 time before, but one thing I had never done was to visit the statue of Christ the Redeemer.

A popular way to get there is to ride the train up Corcovado, the mountain on which the statue stands. Near the top, a group called “Bom de Samba” started up and almost immediately the Brazilian tourists onboard joined in, singing and clapping to the beat.

In order to take this picture, our guide, Christina, laid back on the ground and framed the shot like a pro.

Our last stop of the afternoon was a visit to the Cathedral to see its magnificent stained-glass windows towering above us. As we left the Cathedral, I spotted its reflection in the glass building across the street.

Day 14: At Sea

Because the Lido deck 12 is all window, the view from every table in the Lido Café is spectacular. Today I saw everything from tanker and cargo ships to off-shore drilling platforms to one small boat, maybe a local fisherman.

Chris Coxson, a marine biologist, has given several talks during the cruise, but today was the first time I sat in on one of his lectures. Today’s topic was whale songs and his presentation was full of actual recordings, some barely audible and some quite elaborate.

I joined an ad hoc table for four in the dining room for lunch. As always, there are many restaurant options aboard the ship, and part of the fun is deciding where to go. We then slipped up to Scoops on Lido deck for the perfect dessert – ice cream.

It was my pleasure to co-host a special event this afternoon along with Voyager Club Hosts Brian and Judy Robertson. Hyperion Knight, the talented pianist who is a favorite with those who have heard him before on Crystal Cruises, gave a special master class for the Virtuoso Voyager Club passengers and those who are enrolled in the Yamaha Passport to Music classes. For an hour or so he talked about what it takes to become a virtuoso in the art of music, and he performed a wide sampling of music from pops to classics. Part of the enjoyment for me was the unique setting, the Avenue Saloon on deck 6. It’s richly appointed with dark wood, painted ceilings and comfortable seating.


Coffee and tea in The Bistro and later, dinner in the Dining Room rounded out the day. The NFL playoff games are being shown on the big screen tonight in the Stardust Club. Crystal makes every moment count for their passengers. Since I don’t have a special interest in any of the teams playing and since tomorrow promises an early morning treat, I turned in a little early.

We’ve been told the sail in to Rio is an unforgettable experience. I’ll be top-side at sunrise to see Rio in all her splendor.

Day 13: At Sea

We are just two days away from Rio. Destination Lecturer Ken Rees gave an excellent talk on Brazil this morning. He has a very dry British wit, and grabbed our attention right away when he said Rio is the city with the largest statue and the smallest bikinis! I’ve been to Rio 4 or 5 times, but Ken added some new “must sees” to my wish list, including The Royal Library and the Monastery of St. Benedict where the chapel interior is almost completely covered in gold and gold leaf.

For this segment of the cruise, lectures have been held in the Hollywood Theatre on deck 6. The theatre sees a steady stream of audiences for the multiple lectures and movies offered daily.

During a few minutes of free time I scanned the original art pieces on display for sale in the Crystal Cove on deck 5. Piano music from the bar was as varied as the types of art on display - something for everyone.

Both yesterday and today I spent time in the training room at the top of the ship on deck 13 with my physical trainer, Ian, followed by a massage.

Tonight was another sensational show by the Crystal Ensemble of Singers and Dancers. “Curtain Call” featured songs and dance numbers from recent Broadway hits – Chicago, Evita, Les Miserables, Man of La Mancha, Cats, and Mamma Mia. Every member of this group gives 100% for every performance. I couldn’t begin to count their costume and scenery changes. Top notch all the way.

Tomorrow: at sea.

Day 12: At Sea

It seems everything on the schedule today was to my liking, so I did it all. After breakfast on Lido deck 12, my favorite breakfast spot, I attended two lectures back-to-back. Martin and Tanis Jordan, the couple who lectured a few days ago about their canoe trip in Surinam, came back to tell of their river expedition in Peru 30 years ago. It was another harrowing tale of high adventure, indigenous tribes and motorized canoes, called peki-pekis. Along the way they saw giant otters, green-winged macaws, river turtles, and beautiful butterflies. The river water was filled with piranhas and stingrays. They caught a giant toad that had kept them awake the night before with its strange sounds. One morning they awoke to find jaguar tracks near their hammocks. I have visited Peru several times but I never saw it this wild and untamed.

The second lecturer of the morning was Retired Brigadier General Halley who spoke this time on qualities of leadership. Both he and the Jordans are outstanding examples of the variety and quality of speakers Crystal brings in for its passengers.

Lunch was a real treat - an American Classic Buffet served around the Neptune Pool on deck 12. I topped off my lunch with hand-dipped sugar-free ice cream.

If all this was not enough, I also went to the gym, had a massage and attended two concerts today. West End Singing Star Emma Sinclair gave a wonderful performance this evening. It was a grand way to end the day.



Tomorrow: at sea on our way to Rio.

Day 11: Fortaleza, Brazil

Today was a day of new experiences, thanks to Crystal Cruises. Fortaleza was another new destination for me. Unfortunately, I felt a little under the weather, so I chose to stay onboard during our hours in port. Even on days in port, the Serenity staff makes sure their guests have a variety of options to make their day enjoyable. I spent part of the day exploring the ship and found the Sun Deck on deck 13. It was flooded with sunshine and from that vantage I could see Fortaleza’s high rise hotels and apartments sprawling down the coastline. The perfect chaser for a visit to the sun deck is a frozen treat, and I found it at Scoops Ice Cream Bar on Lido deck 12 – a refreshing scoop of sugar-free sherbet.

Tomorrow: at sea.

Day 10: At the Equator

Brian Robertson, my longtime friend and our Voyager Club host for the World Cruise, joined me for breakfast in the Lido Café this morning. After the 10:00 lecture, I enjoyed a few minutes poolside taking in the fresh air before attending the Mid-Day Mid-Earth party to celebrate crossing the Equator.

King Neptune and his Mermaid Queen, along with their entourage of pirates and mermaids joined the festivities.
During a brief ceremony, King Neptune initiated those who had not previous crossed the Equator by ship into the Ancient Order of the Solemn Mysteries of the Deep, and pronounced all of us Shellbacks. I’ve previous crossed the Equator 7 or 8 times but never with such spectacle and revelry.

Lunch was a Mexican buffet. The tortilla soup was very good, but not as good as Mi Cocina’s in Fort Worth. After lunch and a massage, I had a little time off before the 5:00 musical show called Standing Room Only. Now that was a real show!

Dinner with the Chief Electrical Officer stretched on until we had to move our conversation to the lounge area outside the dining room. The conversation went from swapping stories about life and work at sea, to Harley Davidsons, to Machu picchu, to a funny story he told about driving from Houston to Albuquerque via Dallas/Ft. Worth. The long stretches of Texas highways, and the sheer length of the journey took this Dutchman by surprise. He said he could have crossed several countries in Europe in the time it took him to drive across Texas. That was no surprise to those of us from Texas and we all had a good laugh.

Tomorrow: Fortaleza, Brazil.

Day 9: At Sea

I took my time getting to breakfast this morning, and why not? After all, that’s one of the nice things about a day at sea. I like having breakfast in the Lido Café on Lido deck 12. The waiters knew my name after the first day, and now they greet me with, “Good morning, Mr. Jesse. Do you want green or English Breakfast tea today, Mr. Jesse?” Crystal Serenity has an amazing crew.

At 10:00, I attended a lecture by adventure travelers Martin and Tanis Jordan. They told of their canoe trip 30 years ago in Surinam, which used to be Dutch Guiana. I have had some exciting travel experiences, but nothing like the story they had to tell of an overturned canoe tossing them both into the river rapids, struggling to survive in the rushing water, making their way to a village on the river’s edge, and almost incredibly deciding to continue their journey after losing most of their food and other provisions. They did recover their camera and film and showed some amazing photos from their trip.

A massage and dinner rounded out my rather quiet day. After three ports of call, I found today’s pace to be quite relaxing.

Tomorrow: a day at sea. We will cross the Equator and there is a celebration planned for 11:15a. King Neptune and his Mermaid Queen will pay us a special visit.

Day 8: Devil’s Island, French Guiana

Devil’s Island is one of the destinations on the Crystal World Cruise that I have never visited before in all my years of travel. That is, until today! We had been warned that going ashore can be tricky due to weather and tide conditions, so I was happy the captain deemed it safe for us to take the short tender ride from our anchorage to the Isle Royale, one of the three islands that made up the French penal colony. It was very warm and humid and this small island has only a simple dirt road connecting the various buildings that made up the administration and minimum security sections of the penal colony. I have never seen so many coconut trees. I didn’t stay long, but it was long enough to say I’ve been there! And to prove it, I posed at the sign.

Crystal planned this excursion, and provided for our comfort there by setting up a cold water station (very popular) and placing tour guides strategically around the island to give short talks and answer questions. Ana, the first guide, met us as we walked off the pier. She pointed out we were just 7 miles from the mainland of French Guiana, which we could see in the distance.


The fellows in military uniform were rather casually watching the pier. Devil’s Island serves a purpose now as a tracking station for rockets taking satellites into space, so I assume they were there to protect that facility. After lift-off, the rockets fly directly over the islands. Even though the troops were friendly and happily posed for a picture with me, I was still relieved that they didn’t try to keep me there. I guess you could say I escaped Devil’s Island and lived to tell the tale.

The ship got underway again at 1:00 and after lunch and a massage, I spent the afternoon relaxing and enjoying life aboard the Crystal Serenity.

Tomorrow: a day at sea.

Day 7: At Sea

After breakfast I ventured out for the first time on the Lido deck 12 poolside. The fresh air and steady breeze was very refreshing. I sat in the shade for some time and thoroughly enjoyed the relaxing setting.

Just before lunch I visited the spa for a back and neck massage by Albert. I enjoyed it so much I scheduled another massage for tomorrow afternoon.

Brian and Judy Robertson, our Virtuoso Voyager Club Hosts, had told me under no circumstances should I miss the Sunday Grand Gala Buffet. I’m glad I took their advice. I have seen many lavish table scenes, but none could compare to what I saw today. To celebrate the occasion, I had a glass of champagne with my lunch of lobster and shrimp.

Tonight’s formal dinner put everyone in a festive mood. Just prior to dinner, I posed for my photo with the ship photographer.

After dinner I joined several of my tablemates at the Crystal Society reception. This reception is only for those who have been on one or more previous Crystal cruises. Special recognition was given to several returning guests. Quite a few have been on more than 100 cruises, and one guest counts this voyage as her 231st cruise on Crystal. From my conversations with my fellow passengers, it is clear Crystal Cruises has a very loyal following and I’m certainly not surprised.

The show this evening was called My Favorite Things. It was the best show I’ve seen in a long time. It featured songs from Rogers and Hammerstein musicals, all shows I saw on Broadway after the war. Of course the music was outstanding. Equally entertaining was the singing and dancing of the Crystal Ensemble of Singers and Dancers. The show ended with Shall We Dance from The King and I which is set in Siam (modern day Thailand). The elaborate costumes in this grand finale production number reminded me of the many times I traveled to Asia and my good fortune to have had a long career in the travel industry.

Tomorrow: Devil’s Island

When I walked out on Lido Deck 12 this morning on my way to breakfast, I saw the P&O Ventura at the other side of the dock. Seeing the P&O logo instantly brought back many happy memories of Atlantic crossings with my wife. On several occasions, we took a P&O ship from Acapulco to London via the Panama Canal.

Today was our first Virtuoso Voyager Club shore event of the 2010 Crystal World Cruise. Virtuoso On-Site Sunlinc Barbados provided us an exciting look at the island in the air-conditioned comfort of motor coaches. First stop was the historic St. John’s Parish Church set high on a hill overlooking the Atlantic side of the island. Clear skies and a pleasant breeze made this hilltop setting as cool and comfortable as it was picturesque.

On to St. Nicholas Abbey (it is actually a home believed to be the oldest building on the island) for a tour of the home and a glimpses of the lush gardens on the property. The current owner of the home has restored its sugar mill and now produces a very fine rum.

Soon after we arrived we were offered our choice of rum punch or fruit punch. I followed doctor’s orders and chose the fruit punch. Refreshing.


















Our final stop was an exclusive lunch and entertainment at L’Acajou, the restaurant of the prestigious Sandy Lane Hotel, a Virtuoso property. The performers certainly created a Carnival atmosphere! From the open-air setting of this magnificent restaurant, we could watch the blue-green Caribbean Sea wash ashore while enjoying a Barbados delicacy, flying fish.

















As we traveled between stops, our tour guide shared much information about Barbados’ history and culture, and we had the opportunity to see both sides of the island as well as the interior. We left Barbados all too soon, and are now headed to Devil’s Island and Fortaleza.

Tomorrow: a day at sea.

St. Lucia

Serenity was one of five cruise ships in port today at Castries, St. Lucia. A short tender ride brought us to the pier where Alison and Stewart with Barefoot Holidays were waiting for us.

After a brief visit with Alison, we were off on a driving tour of St. Lucia. Along the way, Stewart, our wonderful driver and guide for the day, stopped periodically to suggest a photo or introduce us to local favorites - coconut water, banana ketchup and cassava bread.

During our drive down the west (Caribbean) side of the island, I was delighted to see a number of familiar sights: acres of banana trees, the twin peaks of the Pitons, the town of Canaries, lush vegetation of the rain forest, and of course Marigot Bay.

As I stepped out onto the pier at Marigot Bay, my mind went back to the 1950’s when my yacht charter company operated from this secluded bay. I’ve always been fascinated by stories of ships hiding in the bay to escape detection by passing enemy vessels.

We thoroughly enjoyed a leisurely lunch at Ladera Resort as the guests of Ralph Hooper, owner, and his daughter Holly Scott. From the vantage of our table we had a spectacular view, and again I was reminded of my many pleasant visits to the island now so long ago. Ralph and Holly invited us to see the most unique suite on the property. As if the furniture which was handmade onsite by local artisans and the handcarved details and mosaic designs were not exciting enough, I was amazed to see the fourth wall, the one that would have faced the Western horizon, has been left completely open, allowing an open air, unobstructed view of the beautiful Pitons framing the Caribbean beyond.


Although of course there have been many changes during the years I have been away from St. Lucia, the beauty of this island nation and the hospitality of her people are as real and inviting as ever. St. Lucia has always held a special place in my heart because I began my travel career here. My return visit today was made all the more memorable by the warm welcome and full attention to every detail by Barefoot Holidays, a Virtuoso On-Site, and Ladera Resort, a member of the Virtuoso Hotel & Resorts program.


Tomorrow: Bridgetown, Barbados and our first Voyager Club excursion.